Monday, December 30, 2013

Passion... March 2010

Los años son para vivirse y no para contarse - The years are for living and not for counting.


Just a few years back, I was lucky enough to visit Washington DC. After the bus tour of the area, asked the tour driver to drop us off at one of the Smithsonian Museums. The closest he said, was the Museum of Natural History.

As we entered the building, saw a sign - Presentation on Mexican Cycles @ 2 p.m. With only minutes to spare, got to the basement auditorium to view a "slideshow."

For most of us, wondered if it was like looking as Uncle John's trip to the Adirondacks in upstate New York. As I saw the first slide, my attention was focused on something Uncle John probably would not have seen, let alone got photos of.

The presenter, George O. Jackson, made it his passion to record festivals in Mexico. Typically they were based on the lunar calendar. George told a smaller group, later at an upstairs photo exhibition, that many of these festivals were in danger of extinction because of migration of the population that had originally established these customs of dress, dance and devotion.

As I noticed the crowd drifting away from George and on to the exhibits, I asked him; what city in Mexico should I visit to get the Essence Of Mexico?  The question was based on his referral to a website that provided addition details as to this over decades long project - The Essence Of Mexico.

His answer; San Miguel de Allende. I never heard of it, so asked him to spell the name. I wrote it on a paper and saved for later exploration. After the usual Google searches, was convinced I needed a "closer" look, so made our initial trip in January 2008.

George's passion, like mine, is photography. As I realized the festivals were both sacred and profane. On this visit, wanted to learn more about the devotion shown during the Semana Santa, also known as the Holy Week events - the Passion of Christ.

Rather than wait to hear what I "might" see, here are some references from those who have already been through what I am about to experience.

http://www.thessenceofmexicoproject.org
/

Dear Patron,
The Essence of Mexico Project is the culmination of a life-long obsession with Mexico, which I feel very privileged to have been able to realize. The project has allowed me to spend the last 11 years doing what I love best - experiencing, appreciating and photographing vanishing traditional art and the folkways of an extraordinary people who have spent generations living on the edge of a marginal existence and making the best of it, in their quest for balance and continuity. Thanks to the generous contributions of patrons and friends, I believe that I have succeeded in creating a unique, historical collection of photography that presents the aesthetic style, or "essence", of each culture photographed. Now the time has come to share these images with the world...

...In closing, I would like to thank God and all of the angels in heaven for channeling my life into this direction, making all of this possible, plus those loyal friends and allies who helped God do it. Although the collection has already spawned ten major international museum exhibitions, the opportunities presented by these images will not be fully realized until the collection’s images can be shared and properly placed in ethnographic and contemporary art fields, as outlined in the accompanying Phase II proposal. I would greatly appreciate your participation in helping to achieve these goals.
Sincerely,
George O. Jackson, Jr
January 1, 2002

I learned a lot from suggestions made by George for more research. Who would have thought that there are over 60 different languages spoken in Mexico - those just from the native peoples who have been there way before the coming of the Spanish Conquistadors of the 15th century.

http://www.thessenceofmexicoproject.org/phaseII.htm
http://www.thessenceofmexicoproject.org/phaseII.html

http://essenceofmexico.org
http://essenceofmexico.org/

The Procession to San Miguel de Allende - Senor de Columna

http://www.zocalotx.com/theprocession.htm

Stayed tuned for more details on both the sacred and profane part of the Easter Fiesta - Festivals.  I will only be sending one note regard this blog, so bookmark it for easy return to our adventure.

Enjoy :-)

SMA Day 1 of 32 - March 19 2010 Leave Michigan for San Miguel de Allende (SMA) Mexico










We left early about 7 a.m., but because of ticketing difficulties, did not arrive until midnight. We did have time to visit the art works within the Mexico City terminal.

Luckily, our ride from the Leon airport came back for us. We were to have been there around 6 pm. Instead, got there closer to 11 p.m. The ride in the dark was a new way to see what we had been on before - to and from this same airport in Jan-Feb 2008.

As you can see from our room @ Casa Liza in San Miguel, it was very welcoming.

More to come later. As with all plans - some times you need to revert to plan B, C or even D before you adapt to the settings. Our connection to wireless internet in our room is spotty - maybe stay connected for a few minutes, then "maybe" will reconnect - maybe not. Will have to rely on going downtown to Biblioteca Publica to post future blogs.

Will try to add maps and additional photos on Google Picassa site - "IF" I can remember logon. Seems that since I am in a different country than US, go thru different setup - all in Espanola. I did mange to finally get into this blog site will;;add the first day only.

It is already Friday March 26 - wow how time flies when you are having fun.

Do send me e-mail at my sbcglobal.net site. I may be able to both read and respond in my allotted 3 minute or so time limit :-)


SMA Day 2 of 32 - March 20 2010 - Time to plan

We are here in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The map will give a general location from Michigan. We are in Guanajuato state and the city or municipality of San Miguel, which I will refer to as SMA to help with my typing. Also trying to speed up page load by only using small photos. You can view the whole album for the day by clicking in link below each photo.

We are staying at the Casa Liza B&B, same as in 2008. Instead of the Casita Maria Luna - an absolutely gorgeous place where you live in the art, we are in the Corner Room. We just love it - daytime around 75 F and night around 50 F.

We also had a chance to make some new friends; Barbara and John from New Mexico. After enjoying breakfast on the outside patio, visited each other's rooms to compare the art work.

From Casa Liza we went downhill to the public wash area - both clothing and kids at times. A natural spring was found a couple of centuries ago to supply the small town with a good fresh water supply. The public wash is for those still not connected to the city water system.

Next was a stop in the Parque Juarez only a few blocks away. This week is the Ecoligico Festival. SMA is known for it’s festivals. This is just one of many.

One new large thing we noticed was a new hotel-residence facility being built adjacent to the Instituto Allende -

http://www.instituto-allende.edu.mx/eng/index.php

The new place is Artesana Rosewood. Should be finished before our next visit.

http://www.artesanasanmiguel.com/

More info about SMA @

http://www.themexicotourist.com/2009/12/san-miguel-de-allende/

http://www.themexicotourist.com/2010/01/major-holidays-along-the-maya-route/

Sorry that I am 16 days behind in doing these blogs. Will try to add more phtos – maybe larger and less words to make updates to blog easier and more time to spend enjoying SMA :-)
View all photos:

Today's photos @ 
http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day2Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  
http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @  
http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano





SMA Day 3 of 32 – Sunday March 21 2010 – Nuestro Seńor de la Columna













North of the US – Mexico border – Holy Week lasts from Palm Sunday until Easter Sunday. Here in SMA, Mexico, it starts and ends with a procession with the Lord of the Column - Nuestro Seńor de la Columna. The life-size statue of Christ is led by a procession of thousands of people from the little church in the town of Attontonilco, 12 kilometers away – to the San Juan de Dios church. The events was started over 200 hundred years ago.

I won’t go into too much detail – although I have tried to read much about the significant events that will happen for over two weeks, and end with the Wednesday after Easter when Nuestro Se
ńor de la Columna is returned to it’s special place in the church in Atotonilco.

I was awestruck by the people who made the trek in the middle of the night to arrive in SMA around 7 am. The “pilgrims” were men, women and children. Some looked like they barely could walk without the aid of 2 canes, but still made the walk to show reverence and devotion to Christ who they believed led them to salvation though his passion and death.

Make note of the few pictures of the “procession carpets” made the night before. Very large “works of art and heart” that will be destroyed when the pilgrims march though. After the crowd of over 10,000 celebrated a Catholic mass @ 8 am, the cleaners were already at work cleaning up what was there on the street.

The groups that arrange the events are made up of many “Hermanodads,” or brotherhoods and ladies sodalities. As you can imagine, the plans are made months in advance.

I left, a very humble person. My first chance to not only observe, but to participate on the many events that will take place over the next 2 weeks.

Almost forgot to add – you are “alerted” to all events, religious and civil through the use of church bells and fireworks – all times of day and night. I was awakened at 5 a.m. To start the day and meet the pilgrims on their way. So when you hear the fireworks – at times what seems like minutes long and thousands (not kidding) of explosions, you know a significant event – birth, death, holiday, whatever festival. You will be “alerted!”

The next major religious event is Friday, March 26 – Our Lady of Sorrows.

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Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day3Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 4 of 32 - Monday March 22 2010 - La vida es incertrta – come el postre primero!




Life is uncertain, eat dessert first!

A day to recoup and reflect. We had breakfast with our new friends from Santa Fe, Barbara and John. Chatted about anything and everything (except politics and religion :)

Then, off to meander the old part of SMA – the historical district about a mile square. Buildings going back to the 16 and 17th century. These are significant since the first of 3 Mexican revolution started in the area in 1810. First to get freedom from Spanish dominion. The next about 50 years later, freedom from the church, that had title to over half of the land. The final, around 1910 was the establishment of democracy. So, this year in September major events will take place to celebrate both a centennial and bicentennial of freedom.

Of course, festivals are a way of life here. As I might have mentioned, we met George O. Jackson at Smithsonian Museum in Washington DC. He told of SMA’s over 50 festivals. Some last 2 weeks; Candaleria, in the springs. At times there are multiple festivals going on. Yep, I’m in my environment here :-)

Get to meet many nice people at a couple of our favorite spots – the public library and the El Pegaso restaurants. Good food and especially, lots of fun.

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day4Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 5 of 32 - Tuesday March 23 2010 – Tianguis Municipal




Shop till you drop at the Tuesday market. Everything you might want and then some – acres of it. After leaving, we take a cab – always green and white to the Fabrica Aurora – a former cloth mill, now high-end art galleries and much more – again, nice place to eat.

On the way back, find the gate to the bullring open. Yes, they have bull fights! Inside they have equestrian classes for special needs people. How nice. Note they have seating and ticket booth designated – sun or shade? Any guess which one costs more?

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day5Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 6 of 32 - Wednesday March 24 2010 – Art in the Parque Juarez




After a another great breakfast @ Casa Liza, chat with Angelica and Remedio, who we met 2 years ago – not staff, but friends.

Next, through Parque Juarez on the way to Instituto Allende, the art school that also has tours available. Get to add another new friend, Jonathon, who has lived and painted in many places around the world.  He feels that SMA has a lot to offer for inspiration. See some of Jonathon's work that is for sale.



http://jonathonwilliams.com/


We pass by a restaurant recommend by some new friend – Tacos de pescado – Fish Tacos – sounds yummy.

We find several tours of interest, but are limited by either our time here – 32 days, or the number of people show might be interested. Minimum is typically 6 paid “tourists.” We arrange to first go to Queretaro, about 50 miles away. Maybe can fit in some others - hopefully to see Mexico City Anthropology Museum and a few Rivera murals.

Along the way, meet more new friends – Maria and Joel from Saginaw Michigan and sisters; Judith and Diane. My “list” of news friends keeps growing :-)


View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day6Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 7 of 32 - Thursday March 25 2010 – A step ladder with over 500 steps




While having breakfast outside – again of course – the weather is great! We watch Martin and Remedio do garden work, The place we are at is gorgeous. We decide to take a “little walk.” Note the last photo of the GPS – over 5 miles this day. Most days 5 to 7 miles. Carol even had one day when I left to try and get internet connection – added a few more. That day total for her – 11 miles.

First level up, “only” 75 very steep steps. We are at the Cultural Institute school and Santa Cruz (Holy Cross) church. The church rings bells most of the day – with a pause from 11 pm to 6 am, unless special need, about 3 night a week. Bells every 15 minutes with special rings to indicate the hour. Since we are only 500 feet away get to enjoy this treat!

As we get to the next level, find a few people “running” both up and down steps. Great cardio workout – or close nearby to celebrate your premature death due to exhaustion. Did I mention we are above 6400 feet?

Finally at the top, a spectacular view of the town below. WOW! The circus is in town so hear the truck with blaring message – I don’t understand – but know for 20 pesos, about 2 bucks, we can look at animals and many special things.

Another fine day comes to an end as we catch the full moon rising above some trees.





View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day7Of32SMA#


Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 8 of 32 - Friday March 26 2010 – Nuestra Senora de las Dolores




The next significant day for my Semana Santa events – Our Lady of Sorrows. Many families and business places erect altars for this one night – starting around 7 pm, you make the rounds to view the altars that show the grieving mother of Jesus. Most altars use the colors purple, white and green, plus various fragrant herbs and flowers.

To show thanks for their good fortune and your visit, they will offer you a special fruit drink and maybe some ice cream. Although many have little as compared to us, they are thankful for what God has shared with them. They in turn share with us.

The next Semana Santa event is Sunday, March 28, Palm Sunday.

View all photos:


Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day8Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 9 of 32 - Saturday March 27 2010 – Tour Historic Queretaro City




We are up early – yes 7:30 am is early for us :-)

After breakfast, off to meet with Cesar, who was our guide during visit in 2008. Much history, art and food and fun. Added many new friends. Finished the day with a stop along the road for tequila to ease our sore legs.

Check out the website for more info on the area. Make note of the aqueducts covering a span of just under a 1,000 feet. Maybe you might even finds the story of how the engineer fell in love with the beautiful nun in the cloister convent – very interesting.

http://www.visitmexico.com/wb/Visitmexico/Visi_Queretaro_est

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day9Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 10 of 32 - Sunday March 28 2010 – Palm Sunday




For many Christians, this is the start of Holy Week. In SMA, there are 2 processions about an hour apart. Both represent Jesus’ entry into Jerusalem atop a donkey. First from the chapel of El Calvario down to Templo San Francisco. People are dressed as apostles and others representing what may have happened, 2,000 years ago.

The second procession leaves Parque Jaurez And is much larger because of more groups being involved other than what might be thought of during the era it originally happened. This time there are indigenous groups involved with their music, dress and other cultural items. Both were impressive.

Many of the special weave palm items are made by the indigenous people of the Michoacan area. We saw some similar items during visit to Queretaro the day before.

Since both churches had overflow crowds to gain entry, Carol & I decided to go to later mass. Since we were near the Biblioteca, went there to partake in the weekly fundraiser – visit local artists homes. We were allowed to tour 3 homes that were absolutely fabulous in art and architecture.

Again, met with old friends, Marty who we met during visit in 2008. Then added many more during home tour, to include a 3 generation group of ladies from Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. We go 1,800 miles to meet our neighbors – how convenient.

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Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day10Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 11 of 32 - Monday March 29 2010 – Mega-Stars




Today was a chance to visit out side our normal walk pattern. Go to visit the Mega store, just outside the colonial area. On the way there, spotted about a dozen trucks with signs indicating they were from Mexico TV Azteca. From what I could make of it, they were doing a shoot for soap opera episode.

We left the stars behind and walked to the Mega. Yes it was big and great variety of things. Very similar to our local Meijers market – maybe smaller than a Wal-Mart. Goodies everywhere. As always, decided to look for pan dulce – sweet bread. We both got what we wanted and munched and people watched for awhile.

On the way back, stopped to look at the outside of the local Ford Motor dealer. Saw several vehicles I know are not available in the US and maybe Canada. My boys remind me at times during our 28 days; 11,000 mile drive between Michigan and Alaska, that I seemed to want to visit too many Ford dealers. Also, that old habit disappeared after my transition to formerly employed :-)

Back in town, taping for the soap opera still going on but a different location. Was nice to see the interest in SMA for a shoot.

Back in our room paused to view photos of two other stars; Lauren Bacall, who probably did not stay at CasaLiza; and, Antonio Banderas, who did during a movie a few years back.

I opened a drawer to find a scorpion – decide I didn’t need to put anything there...

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Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day11Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 12 of 32 - Tuesday March 30 2010 – El Charco del Ingenio




Today, a 2 1/2 hour, outdoor tour of the botanical garden just north of town. El Charco del Ingenio.

Our tour group started small; Carol & I and 2 young ladies; one from Italy, the other from France. We were joined about 15 minutes into the tour by a family group of 6. They stayed for part of the tour and left for cooler endeavors.

http://www.elcharco.org.mx/

My photos don’t do justice for the rocky canyon below the dam. Previously used to power the Fabrica Aurora cloth mill further downstream. We could see the high water marks from recent unexpected heavy rains. The water peaked about 15 feet above the top of the dam. Below the canyon, it quickly enlarges to more than 500 feet deep.

At one point, we get to see the special spring-fed pool revered by the indigenous people. The depth is still to be determined. At some point a weight with 3,000 feet of cable was used to see just how deep? More than 3,000 feet I guess.

The trip back included a stop at Café Santa Ana in the library. As always, met many friends. Enjoy the variety of special menu items. This day it was carrot soup and stir fry for me. Carol had a club sandwich. Included dessert was cream covered hot brownie. Now you know why we walk so much to use up the extra calories :-)

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day12Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102#

Adios – don Mariano



SMA Day 13 of 32 - Wednesday March 31 2010 – Walking with Angels




Started the day with a church visit up the hill to Templo Santa Cruz. Was good to see the inside. Took me awhile to determine what the schedule was. After checking on the variety of bell ringing, determined it was at 9 am most days.

Took some photos from there of the bell tower we hear through the day. Then went next door to the Cultural Center. Since it is Holy Week, no school in session. Although there is a separation of church and state, it is hard to tell just where the separation starts or ends. As recent as the late 1920’s, church attendance was forbidden. Services were held in secret at homes or small hotels. How things have changed.

Again, I will say how impressed I am by the reverence to the faith the people have.

Later in the day, was “downtown” to see the stations of the cross. Fifteen stops along the way of Jesus’ passion walk of the crucifixion. Seeing so many children taking active parts was nice that the traditions will carry on.

After the procession passed, the sweepers and cleaners were there to pick up what had fallen; flowers, chamomile and other items used.

A long walk today – over 11 miles. Well worth the effort thinking back a week ago to the pilgrims walking from the remote church through the night.

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day13Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 14 of 32 - Thursday April 1 2010 – Jueves Santo – Holy Thursday




During breakfast in the garden, met a young couple who were visiting to check on some furniture to be made in SMA. He lived in many places around the world before finding his bride in Monterrey Mexico. His work takes him to Mexico City, so took his wife while she had some free time from her job. They showed us a photo book by Willy Sousa. The photo and video project is part of a special traveling exhibit for the centennial and bicentennial celebrations. Since the exhibit is now in the Mexico City zocolo - city center, we might be able to see the exhibit and get the book.

Next was to go to see if we could get confirmed for this Saturday tour to old mining town – Pozos. Unfortunately, we were the only two people who had expressed interest. Too bad. Hope we can get to Mexico City a week from now :-

Stopped for a bite to eat at Café Monet, another favorite of ours. Got to meet the owner, Bill Mendenhall. Fun to share stories with him.

From there, on to determine which 7 churches to visit today. Tradition is to visit seven churches for good fortune after participating in the washing of the apostles feet in the main parish church – The Parrochia.

On way around, visit with Guadalupe and Juan, who have snack shop down the street from us. Very nice people.

From 5-7 pm service @ Parrochia, make our round of the churches. There must be a dozen within the square mile of the colonial area. All of them have services, unlike at home with so many closings.

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day14Of32SMA#


Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 15 of 32 - Friday April 2 2010 – Viernes Santo – Holy Friday




We participated in the Via Crucis – Way of the Cross in Colonia San Luis Rey about 3 miles north of us. The Passion re-enactment of the Stations of the Cross starts at the town church and proceeds 2 kilometers to Montes de Loreto. Jesus pulls a 130 pound cross over rocky or dirt road. He is followed by the 2 thieves who are bound to cross bars of the crosses they will be placed on. The procession lasted over 2 hours and was a very visual display of what happened. As the whipping was going on, you could hear both adults and children cry as though they perceived as as actually happening at this time.

Once we got to the hill where the crosses were raised, you could see a person representing Judas hanging from a tree for almost 45 minutes before being let down – too real for my senses.

I’ll let the photos tell the rest.

Afterwards, Carol and I walked down the dusty road to return to town. There must have been well over a thousand people who walked the entire route. We were blessed to have the opportunity to be part of this.

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day15Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 16 of 32 - Saturday April 3 2010 – Time to reflect




An easy day of walking around. First to Parque Juarez to see painters in actions and what was for sale. Got to meet Jonathon who has been here for a few months. Depending on sales of what he has, may stay longer. If not, will pack bags and on to next adventure. He told of trips to various countries to do both scenic and private portraiture work. Although he likes both France and Italy, says he would like to settle in Colombia if not so much time wondering if violence may be too near.

From there, on to the Jardin, or garden in the center of town – sometimes called the zocolo. Was fun watching kids holler and run around. Parents sitting in the shade eating helado – ice cream. Even saw friends we had met earlier in the week.

The nice “easy” walk was 7.21 miles. Decided to spend some chill time back at Casa Liza.

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day16Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 17 of 32 - Sunday April 4 2010 – Easter




Before attending church service, we spent about an hour in the Jardin watching the Firing (exploding) of the Judases. Simply put, paper mache puppets are filled with timed fireworks. Each of the 24 were exploded separately.

The puppets represent the “bad” people in our life. Typically, each carried a sign of the person that was going to meets it’s exploding end.

Later, went for a walk and smelled burgers. Not quite a cheeseburger in paradise – only better – very yummy. Went home to see a hot air balloon floating by.

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day17Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 18 of 32 - Monday April 5 2010 – Mondays are for meandering




After breakfast and checking out the sight of our garden, went to see what is outside the walls of the compound we are in. Unlike most B&B – bed & breakfasts – a building with rooms. This is basically a 17th century family compound with different buildings inside. The owner, Liza Kisber, added a few other building, so you feel almost like you are in our own casita – home. Just wonderful.

As we moved along saw work on a place that was being renovated – think patch walls maybe a foot or 2 thick! Most cases, the outside is no reflection on what beauty is “beyond the gates.” One photographer, Robert de Gast, makes a living selling books of his photos. The books have titles like; The Doors of SMA. This is followed by; Beyond the Doors of SMA. Next was; Churches and Chapels of SMA. When you have a winning formula, you stick with it.

As we walked, saw some very nice neighborhoods. Only blocks away, around a corner, could see what the poor have to live with next to a trash filled stream. We noticed that tourist traffic is much less than last visit in 2008. Most here attribute to the slow world economy. Some who went to El Norte have returned because of lack of work and remittance that allows the family to live.

There are no easy answers to provide work to those want to work, even if leaving family for months to improve supporting their loved ones.

We think of headlines showing drug trade – yes it is here just like many other places. If no work for your young people, what do you do? Around the corner from the formal Farmacia are signs of the illicit drug trade. When someone says they are going to CVS, it might mean something all together different here – CVS, the local narco gang.

As I look at the brick work done here, can understand the preference for some in the US to use Mexican trained masons. Absolutely artful and reasonably priced.

We again meet Jonathon, who joins us for some respite in the Café Monet. Bill, the owner, introduces us to some other guests, who like us are here for either short or much longer stays.

From there, it is back to our Corner Room @ Casa Liza. Can you see why we like it here?

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Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 19 of 32 - Tuesday April 6 2010 – Illin or Chillin?




Went to Santa Cruz church today, hoping to catch the bell ringer in action. I was in luck. Found he has 2 separate ropes – one for each bell tower. Our place is just below all the jumble of wires.

Carol wasn't feeling well at breakfast, so I took the day to catch up on 2 weeks worth of blogs – matching photos with words. Needless to say, the number of photos is way below what I normally shoot – around 500. Am well over 8,000 snapshots so far. I call them my electronic bread crumbs since I can integrate the photos with GPS data and add to a map to know exactly where I was when I took the photo.

Like any new place, takes a while to accustom yourself to the surroundings and with so many hills, the reference points aren’t always easy.

Carol felt better around 6 pm, so went to el Pegaso restaurant. Soup and salad for her. Pollo mole for me. Chicken with the special chocolate based sauce. Every day I sing my favorite female Mexico singer’ – Lila Downs - song – La cumbia del mole. She sings about being in Oaxaca and mixing up a batch of mole with spices, chocolate and chilies. Tasty :-)

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Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 20 of 32 - Wednesday April 7 2010 – Hole-y in the wall gang?




Tried again this morning to catch the church bell ringer in action – got there a bit too late. Only got a few seconds of video on my small camera to share. Added some photos as I went back down the steep hill to our room @ Casa Liza. Some pictures show just how steep things are. What doesn’t show too well is what the birds (snowy egrets) drop on unsuspecting passerby – me one time, so far.

Some of the “stuff" does drop into the garden here, so is probably being put to good use  :-)

Here are photos of my somewhat usual breakfast. Glass of orange juice, fresh from the trees outside. Then a plate of sliced fruit; consisting of bananas, mangoes and papaya. At times, a piece of lime to squeeze juice on the fruit. This is followed by a bowl of granola with more sliced fruit and covered with yogurt and a bit of honey to sweeten.

Of course, a cup of coffee, with some fresh bread and pina (pineapple) marmalade. All this while sitting out on the patio watching the birds, to include hummingbirds. Assorted butterflies. And the smell of orange blossoms. Reminds me of the times I traveled in Florida citrus country – too sweet.

Came into the kitchen and met Gloria who prepares the food and her friends.

Later went to restaurant to see what I see in US; teenagers texting and adults trying to eat, while talking on cell and maybe using a PDA or “crack berry” to read e-mail. Guess I am spoiled. Only have my cameras to keep me occupied :-)

Went to grocery store to search for things to munch on during this weekends trip to Mexico City to visit archeological museum and Diego Rivera murals. While there, spotted some hair care products I haven't seen for awhile; Wildroot Cream Oil and Brylcreem. Since I still have shaggy stuff on top , bought a small sample to see if I can get that Antonio Banderas slick back look!

From there, a walked past the construction of new Artesana Rosewood residences on former convent property. Conveniently, some bricks are missing so I can check out what the gang is working on.

Did notice a new restaurant for us to sample. Probably walked by the place across the road dozen times and never noticed the sign. Today, smelled grilled onions and garlic – my favorites. Stopped to meet Byron who moved to SMA a year ago and opened shop about 7 months ago.

Talked to some customers as they left and said they will be back. Better food and ambience then the “La Palapa” taco pescado (fish) place across the street.

From there, back home to Corner Room. I love all the vegetation, but note in one picture, just above the balcony door is a roost of snowy egrets...mmm, not good. Then again, we are facing directly west and see some beautiful sunsets :-)





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Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 21 of 32 - Thursday April 8 2010 –Ding Dong – Boom Boom – Cha Cha Cha




Started the morning with a visit to the church up the near hill – Chaplo de la Santa Cruz. Site of the first church in SMA around 1542. Also met new neighbors @ Casa Liza – Scott and Motoko from Newport Beach, CA. It was their first visit to SMA, but loved it. Were referred by friends who came a few months ago.

From there, went downtown to check on some things at library gift shop. Talked with Leona, a volunteer who steered me a a controversial book – Finding Frida Kahlo. Truth or fake? Who knows, but an interesting read of a alleged find of something's available at a local antique shop. Personal items from Frida Kahlo, who was Diego Rivera’s wife. Check out Amazon write-up.

http://www.amazon.com/Finding-Frida-Kahlo-Barbara-Levine/dp/1568988303

As always, many things for me to take photos of. Although I have posted over 800, my “collection” this trip is already over 10,000. Thank goodness for digital camera and high capacity storage cards :-)

Lunch was at a new place - Café Rana run by Jason. Good food and reasonable prices. Especially notable even at 2 pm all 20 seats filed with people waiting. Too many other places have little or no business. Location does not always seem to help – go figure.

We return to B&B to freshen up and get some respite from “mucho calori” or very hot – 85F. I love it, but many others refer to take that afternoon “siesta.” This is my first chance to get photo of Lupita or Lupe. She does the laundry at Casa Liza. Unlike most of the other staff who remain visible during the day, she is in a small building with washer and dryers humming away.

This day’s next walking trek took us first due South from Casa Liza on Redreo and Bajada del Chorro to Arroyo. Next past Del Sol. Then meandering (as always) past a mix of neighborhoods, with small “bungalows” to mansions beyond my purse strings :-)

It was great to see many shops; woodworking, tinsmiths, stone sculptors among the many places you see with open doors and gates.

Needless to say, after all the walking – seems like mostly uphill – stopped again at Oliver's Burger House. As before, ordered a Hamberguesa Tajan or Texan. Since the restaurant is one level back from the street, have to pass a small hallway to get back to walk. As I again wanted to peer thru the window of gallery and studio we saw only days before – noticed, the place was bare! Too many places that rely heavily on tourist traffic are faced with the decision to close and try to work from home or move.

On the way back, pass thru Parque Jaurez, the largest of about 6 parks in the colonial area which is just over 1 square mile. We spot some “classis cars.” Two Chrysler products from the 1960-70 era. One is Se Vende – for sale – as a “clasico” :-)

We make it back up the road to Casa Liza and join Marvin and Dorinda on one of the many patios here. Just then, a band strikes up the music, so we spend a couple of hours listening to the music. A thought it might have been to celebrate a birthday at the large home just in back of this property.

The boom-boom is some distant fireworks to alert of of maybe a birth or death. Some rain starts to come down, so we head for the nice comfy beds – suenos dulce – sweet dreams :-)

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Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 22 of 32 - Friday April 9 2010 – Bigger BOOM-BOOM




How would you like to hear the equivalent of an artillery barrage to wake you at 7 am? We did. First salvo – about 50 rounds. No war going on, only thought the neighbor was announcing his birthday. After a sporadic “booming” for the next hour, decided to go back to Chaplo Santa Cruz for Catholic mass with Father or better Fray José Guadalupe.

Once I get there see the source of fireworks was the church! One of the special saints for the parish was being celebrated. Instead of the usual 10 or so who attended, the 80 seats inside were filled with people filling the aisle ways and out the doors – which is where I ended up.

All thru the mass the barrages continued at specific times. Start of mass. Then the Gospel. Next the Consecration of water and wine, Then Communion. With the biggest 100 bombs at the end.

Most of the 200+ people were happy to be there – on a Friday yet!

I come back for breakfast and report to Carol what I saw. We then go downtown to pick up laundry and some snacks. Thinking we might go to Mexico City for weekend for tour – hopes are dashed since only 4 people sign up. The cancel with less than 6 :-(

Went for lunch @ Café Monet and talked with Bill, the owner. He wondered why Telmex had shut off his phone? I found out later the Mexican government had required all cell phones users to register data that links them to their phone. If not done by TODAY, your service is shut off. They claim this will help eliminate extortion and drug trafficking. Let’s hope so. Also met one of my Casa Liza “neighbors”, Marvin. He came because I had said how good the food was/is?

From there, back home to meet Carol who went shopping. Took more photos of the public washing site. Nobody washing at the time. With over 40 tubs available, no waiting Water comes in via the uphill spring. Most cases I see the finished laundry drying on the nearby shrubs.

As I got closer to Casa Liza noticed the snowy egrets had returned to the nests. And... Because of all the booms, decided to drop some “bombs” of their own. Note the roof of the red truck and the nearby wall!

When Carol returned, we took walk to city square garden, called the Jardin. Great people watching. Kids playing, vendors selling anything and everything. A short while later saw an elderly couple cross the street near us. Since he had a cane, suggested he sit on our bench and join us. Found out that Katherine and Jim were from Santa Fe NM. Had be coming to SMA for over 3 decades. Since Jim was too ill to come last year, thought it better to rent a room in downtown hotel rather than get a house as they had for this visit.

We had quite a chat. Found out both were in the US diplomatic corps and been to a dozen countries. The could not understand all the fuss about what was going on at the US-Mexico border with the drug oriented focus. They feel once you get farther down where we are, it is a great place to be. Even with their short stay of 8 days, said – we just have to come here and feel relaxed among the Jacaranda trees and wonderful people.

We feel the same. On way back, stopped at snack shop/wine store. Carol says that Guadalupe is our sommelier and suggests wheat wines go good with relaxing – all of them :-)

Buenos noches...

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Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 23 of 32 - Saturday April 10 2010 – Million $ homes with views worth even more




Usual morning, go to Chaplo Santa Cruz. Chat briefly with Fray Guadalupe. Look at broken egg shell from snowy egrets. Have whatever Lorenzo the business manager is having. I just ask for huevos Lorenzo. I get something different each day, just like him.

We decided for another walk via the route of the other day – go south about 4 blocks then turn left instead of right as we had before. As you can see from the photos, we jus keep climbing the side of the mountain. The view and the homes only seem to get bigger and better.

As we come back to our level – only 6400 feet altitude rather than the million $ stratosphere, see working people homes. Cute one has Bimbo bread and soft drink sign outside. The also sell ladies lingerie – what is this? Also check out the work done by stone carvers – many great craftsmen here, Can understand why people want and do spend money on these beautiful places.

We come back to Casa Liza, wash up and head for Café Rana, where we recently met Jason the owner. Carol had pulled pork with a curry sauce. I had curried chicken on rice with purslane garnish.

From there, back to Jardin. Saw dance contest featuring Cuban music and dance styles – way too kewl. About an hour later, saw a wedding party leaving the Parrochia – or St Michael the Archangel church just across the street. Maybe I can ad a short video clip of how they have fun here.

I mist say, they know how to party. The couple who got married are staying in the colonial compound just in back of us. We had a chance to enjoy their music the other night while watching the starry sky and sipping wine.

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Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 24 of 32 - Sunday April 11 2010 – Doubting Tomas




Our stay in SMA is coming to a an end. Only one more week until we leave. Like Doubting Tomas in today's gospel at the Templo San Francisco church, wonder if I would have believed in the faith of the Holy Week experience if I had not seen it for myself?

With such a short time left, wonder too, what else? What next?

As always, snapping away with the digital camera. Total now over 11,000 items. Mostly photos, with some video and audio captures.

As I mentioned to a friend, thought it better to share my good fortune to be here and express my observations. I am sure we all remember the adage – a picture is worth a thousand words? Then what value are a thousand pictures? So much to see and compare to what I usually observe.

I started the day with photos at Casa Liza. The staff getting ready for the day preparing our breakfast. Martin (Martine) the gardener, brought his cute baby. Next it was to the area were guest registration takes place and I get to try for better internet connection to this laptop. Next to the place I “work on this travel blog” are some photos. One of course is of Liza Kisber, owner of Casa Liza. With her is Doc Severinson, band leader of Johnny Carson show fame. Until recently, he was playing horn at local restaurant. In his 80s, this must be the place of fountain of youth. Speaking of which is a photo of Johnny Depp and Liza’s son, Roger. Johnny and Antonio Banderas stayed @ Case Liza when making a movie – Once Upon A Time In Mexico.

Next are photos of the indoor dining area with some “eclectic” furniture by local artist Pedro Fridenberg. From there, Carol and I left for downtown area. Again, we meander about watching people and taking in what me some things that pass away too fast.

In the evening, there is a free concert of Christian music and a play about life of Jesus from a Latin America view. Although I didn’t understand much of the words, did know what message they were trying to share.

From there, back “home” around 8:30 and download and review photos and distance traveled via GPS – 5.1 miles today. Not bad considering the overall altitude 6500 feet and steep inclines of streets at times. Tomorrow – another day of adventure.

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Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 25 of 32 - Monday April 12 2010 – Buenas Aventuras




Well another day to search out some “good adventures.” Carol tried to make friends with the 2 parrots here in the Casa Liza garden. One would hold her finger. The other thought it more like – looks like chicken – I mean parrot food to me!

From there, met Kathy at the YARN shop. Nice chat and saw this is an outlet for Carol during our next visit. Although I have snapped many photos – Carol has read 8 books. Nice way to spend leisure time.

From there, on to the Jardin – city center park. We get to meet Ollie and friends. We sat near them a week ago on visit to the El Pegaso restaurant. I needed to get more details on the others. My mind is not as sharp as 94 year old Ollie! We met his son, Russell and Norman also at the restaurant. A new person was Ellie who is in SMA on a house swap. Also has been to San Diego area where Ollie and Russell also have homes. A coincidence for them. A bigger one was when Ollie heard I had been @ Ford Motor. Ollie said he helped design the chassis on the 4 door T’Bird of the late 50’s. We talk more and find he lived in the Dearborn Hills neighborhood I am now in – WOW. Neither remembered the exact street since it was 1947 when they left.

They asked us to join the for a beer since it was lunch time. For us, we had only finished breakfast less then an our before so told them – later :-)

The next stop – the artesans market to see what trinkets we might bring back. Although our second visit there, no clear items than said – take me home!

Since we were already headed in a eastern direction, took out the map and found a church “up in the hills” I heard about. Templo San Jose de le Montagna. After huffing and puffing for 45 minutes found it. Wonderful spot to view the whole city – again. From there, the option, climb up another 400 or so feet in altitude or head down? No decision required on my part. The stairway we found was narrow and s-t-e-e-p. Think scary steep.

It was a fun walk down observing the sights as we descended. Since time now around 3:30 pm stop for food @ El Pegaso and meet our wait staff friends there. Always nice and call us by our names – yes good names Mariano and Carol.

From there, started return trip home to relax. While almost there, stopped to talk to a lady who was sweeping up the broken beer bottles in the street from the night before. Add one more friend to the list – Evelyn from Texas. She has been coming here for 25 years. Within minutes, the rains start, so she invites us in the wait it out and show us her adobe built house. Like many other places nearby – authentic 17th century. Chat was fun and left after the rain.

Later rains came when it got dark around 8 pm. I stood by our balcony and listened to the thunder in the distance. As that stopped, could hear the crickets chirping. To think, many more months before we get that sound in Michigan.

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Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 26 of 32 - Tuesday April 13 2010 – Lucky Old Sun or Son?




That Lucky Old Sun - Play Louis Armstrong

Up in the mornin',
Out on the job,
I work like the devil for my pay.
I know that lucky old sun, has nothin' to do,
But roll around heaven all day.

I fuss with my woman, and toil with my kids,
Sweat 'til I'm wrinkled and gray.
I know that lucky old sun, has nothin' to do,
But roll around heaven all day.

Dear Lord above, don't you see I'm cry'in?
I got tears all in my eyes.
Why don't you send down that cloud with the silver lining,
Lift me up to Paradise (lift me up to paradise).

Show me that river, why don't you take me across,
Wash all my troubles away,
I know that lucky old sun, he's got nothing to do,
But just roll around heaven all day

Dear Lord above, can't you know I'm cry'in?
Tears all in my eyes),
Send down that cloud with the silver lining,
Lift me to Paradise (lift me up to paradise).

Yes sun, He got nothing but roll around heaven all day,
I say he just-a roll around heaven all day



I’ve been listening to this 2008 album by Brain Wilson of the Beach Boys fame most mornings. Makes me think, am I the lucky one? This song I find out out was first sung by Frankie Lane in 1949. Since then many others who wonder the same thing. Ray Charles, Louis Armstrong, Johnny Cash, even Kenny Chesney.

Brian though, took the one song and made it into a theme that tells the story of his life – ups and downs, just like the streets of SMA. If interested, story @

http://www.usatoday.com/life/music/news/2008-09-01-brian-wilson_N.htm

For me, the story goes on like the rest of us. Up in the morning and.... Hope the photos tell my story.

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Adios – don Mariano