Monday, December 30, 2013

Passion... March 2010

Los años son para vivirse y no para contarse - The years are for living and not for counting.


Just a few years back, I was lucky enough to visit Washington DC. After the bus tour of the area, asked the tour driver to drop us off at one of the Smithsonian Museums. The closest he said, was the Museum of Natural History.

As we entered the building, saw a sign - Presentation on Mexican Cycles @ 2 p.m. With only minutes to spare, got to the basement auditorium to view a "slideshow."

For most of us, wondered if it was like looking as Uncle John's trip to the Adirondacks in upstate New York. As I saw the first slide, my attention was focused on something Uncle John probably would not have seen, let alone got photos of.

The presenter, George O. Jackson, made it his passion to record festivals in Mexico. Typically they were based on the lunar calendar. George told a smaller group, later at an upstairs photo exhibition, that many of these festivals were in danger of extinction because of migration of the population that had originally established these customs of dress, dance and devotion.

As I noticed the crowd drifting away from George and on to the exhibits, I asked him; what city in Mexico should I visit to get the Essence Of Mexico?  The question was based on his referral to a website that provided addition details as to this over decades long project - The Essence Of Mexico.

His answer; San Miguel de Allende. I never heard of it, so asked him to spell the name. I wrote it on a paper and saved for later exploration. After the usual Google searches, was convinced I needed a "closer" look, so made our initial trip in January 2008.

George's passion, like mine, is photography. As I realized the festivals were both sacred and profane. On this visit, wanted to learn more about the devotion shown during the Semana Santa, also known as the Holy Week events - the Passion of Christ.

Rather than wait to hear what I "might" see, here are some references from those who have already been through what I am about to experience.

http://www.thessenceofmexicoproject.org
/

Dear Patron,
The Essence of Mexico Project is the culmination of a life-long obsession with Mexico, which I feel very privileged to have been able to realize. The project has allowed me to spend the last 11 years doing what I love best - experiencing, appreciating and photographing vanishing traditional art and the folkways of an extraordinary people who have spent generations living on the edge of a marginal existence and making the best of it, in their quest for balance and continuity. Thanks to the generous contributions of patrons and friends, I believe that I have succeeded in creating a unique, historical collection of photography that presents the aesthetic style, or "essence", of each culture photographed. Now the time has come to share these images with the world...

...In closing, I would like to thank God and all of the angels in heaven for channeling my life into this direction, making all of this possible, plus those loyal friends and allies who helped God do it. Although the collection has already spawned ten major international museum exhibitions, the opportunities presented by these images will not be fully realized until the collection’s images can be shared and properly placed in ethnographic and contemporary art fields, as outlined in the accompanying Phase II proposal. I would greatly appreciate your participation in helping to achieve these goals.
Sincerely,
George O. Jackson, Jr
January 1, 2002

I learned a lot from suggestions made by George for more research. Who would have thought that there are over 60 different languages spoken in Mexico - those just from the native peoples who have been there way before the coming of the Spanish Conquistadors of the 15th century.

http://www.thessenceofmexicoproject.org/phaseII.htm
http://www.thessenceofmexicoproject.org/phaseII.html

http://essenceofmexico.org
http://essenceofmexico.org/

The Procession to San Miguel de Allende - Senor de Columna

http://www.zocalotx.com/theprocession.htm

Stayed tuned for more details on both the sacred and profane part of the Easter Fiesta - Festivals.  I will only be sending one note regard this blog, so bookmark it for easy return to our adventure.

Enjoy :-)

SMA Day 1 of 32 - March 19 2010 Leave Michigan for San Miguel de Allende (SMA) Mexico










We left early about 7 a.m., but because of ticketing difficulties, did not arrive until midnight. We did have time to visit the art works within the Mexico City terminal.

Luckily, our ride from the Leon airport came back for us. We were to have been there around 6 pm. Instead, got there closer to 11 p.m. The ride in the dark was a new way to see what we had been on before - to and from this same airport in Jan-Feb 2008.

As you can see from our room @ Casa Liza in San Miguel, it was very welcoming.

More to come later. As with all plans - some times you need to revert to plan B, C or even D before you adapt to the settings. Our connection to wireless internet in our room is spotty - maybe stay connected for a few minutes, then "maybe" will reconnect - maybe not. Will have to rely on going downtown to Biblioteca Publica to post future blogs.

Will try to add maps and additional photos on Google Picassa site - "IF" I can remember logon. Seems that since I am in a different country than US, go thru different setup - all in Espanola. I did mange to finally get into this blog site will;;add the first day only.

It is already Friday March 26 - wow how time flies when you are having fun.

Do send me e-mail at my sbcglobal.net site. I may be able to both read and respond in my allotted 3 minute or so time limit :-)


SMA Day 2 of 32 - March 20 2010 - Time to plan

We are here in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The map will give a general location from Michigan. We are in Guanajuato state and the city or municipality of San Miguel, which I will refer to as SMA to help with my typing. Also trying to speed up page load by only using small photos. You can view the whole album for the day by clicking in link below each photo.

We are staying at the Casa Liza B&B, same as in 2008. Instead of the Casita Maria Luna - an absolutely gorgeous place where you live in the art, we are in the Corner Room. We just love it - daytime around 75 F and night around 50 F.

We also had a chance to make some new friends; Barbara and John from New Mexico. After enjoying breakfast on the outside patio, visited each other's rooms to compare the art work.

From Casa Liza we went downhill to the public wash area - both clothing and kids at times. A natural spring was found a couple of centuries ago to supply the small town with a good fresh water supply. The public wash is for those still not connected to the city water system.

Next was a stop in the Parque Juarez only a few blocks away. This week is the Ecoligico Festival. SMA is known for it’s festivals. This is just one of many.

One new large thing we noticed was a new hotel-residence facility being built adjacent to the Instituto Allende -

http://www.instituto-allende.edu.mx/eng/index.php

The new place is Artesana Rosewood. Should be finished before our next visit.

http://www.artesanasanmiguel.com/

More info about SMA @

http://www.themexicotourist.com/2009/12/san-miguel-de-allende/

http://www.themexicotourist.com/2010/01/major-holidays-along-the-maya-route/

Sorry that I am 16 days behind in doing these blogs. Will try to add more phtos – maybe larger and less words to make updates to blog easier and more time to spend enjoying SMA :-)
View all photos:

Today's photos @ 
http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day2Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  
http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @  
http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano





SMA Day 3 of 32 – Sunday March 21 2010 – Nuestro Seńor de la Columna













North of the US – Mexico border – Holy Week lasts from Palm Sunday until Easter Sunday. Here in SMA, Mexico, it starts and ends with a procession with the Lord of the Column - Nuestro Seńor de la Columna. The life-size statue of Christ is led by a procession of thousands of people from the little church in the town of Attontonilco, 12 kilometers away – to the San Juan de Dios church. The events was started over 200 hundred years ago.

I won’t go into too much detail – although I have tried to read much about the significant events that will happen for over two weeks, and end with the Wednesday after Easter when Nuestro Se
ńor de la Columna is returned to it’s special place in the church in Atotonilco.

I was awestruck by the people who made the trek in the middle of the night to arrive in SMA around 7 am. The “pilgrims” were men, women and children. Some looked like they barely could walk without the aid of 2 canes, but still made the walk to show reverence and devotion to Christ who they believed led them to salvation though his passion and death.

Make note of the few pictures of the “procession carpets” made the night before. Very large “works of art and heart” that will be destroyed when the pilgrims march though. After the crowd of over 10,000 celebrated a Catholic mass @ 8 am, the cleaners were already at work cleaning up what was there on the street.

The groups that arrange the events are made up of many “Hermanodads,” or brotherhoods and ladies sodalities. As you can imagine, the plans are made months in advance.

I left, a very humble person. My first chance to not only observe, but to participate on the many events that will take place over the next 2 weeks.

Almost forgot to add – you are “alerted” to all events, religious and civil through the use of church bells and fireworks – all times of day and night. I was awakened at 5 a.m. To start the day and meet the pilgrims on their way. So when you hear the fireworks – at times what seems like minutes long and thousands (not kidding) of explosions, you know a significant event – birth, death, holiday, whatever festival. You will be “alerted!”

The next major religious event is Friday, March 26 – Our Lady of Sorrows.

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day3Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 4 of 32 - Monday March 22 2010 - La vida es incertrta – come el postre primero!




Life is uncertain, eat dessert first!

A day to recoup and reflect. We had breakfast with our new friends from Santa Fe, Barbara and John. Chatted about anything and everything (except politics and religion :)

Then, off to meander the old part of SMA – the historical district about a mile square. Buildings going back to the 16 and 17th century. These are significant since the first of 3 Mexican revolution started in the area in 1810. First to get freedom from Spanish dominion. The next about 50 years later, freedom from the church, that had title to over half of the land. The final, around 1910 was the establishment of democracy. So, this year in September major events will take place to celebrate both a centennial and bicentennial of freedom.

Of course, festivals are a way of life here. As I might have mentioned, we met George O. Jackson at Smithsonian Museum in Washington DC. He told of SMA’s over 50 festivals. Some last 2 weeks; Candaleria, in the springs. At times there are multiple festivals going on. Yep, I’m in my environment here :-)

Get to meet many nice people at a couple of our favorite spots – the public library and the El Pegaso restaurants. Good food and especially, lots of fun.

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day4Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 5 of 32 - Tuesday March 23 2010 – Tianguis Municipal




Shop till you drop at the Tuesday market. Everything you might want and then some – acres of it. After leaving, we take a cab – always green and white to the Fabrica Aurora – a former cloth mill, now high-end art galleries and much more – again, nice place to eat.

On the way back, find the gate to the bullring open. Yes, they have bull fights! Inside they have equestrian classes for special needs people. How nice. Note they have seating and ticket booth designated – sun or shade? Any guess which one costs more?

View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day5Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano

SMA Day 6 of 32 - Wednesday March 24 2010 – Art in the Parque Juarez




After a another great breakfast @ Casa Liza, chat with Angelica and Remedio, who we met 2 years ago – not staff, but friends.

Next, through Parque Juarez on the way to Instituto Allende, the art school that also has tours available. Get to add another new friend, Jonathon, who has lived and painted in many places around the world.  He feels that SMA has a lot to offer for inspiration. See some of Jonathon's work that is for sale.



http://jonathonwilliams.com/


We pass by a restaurant recommend by some new friend – Tacos de pescado – Fish Tacos – sounds yummy.

We find several tours of interest, but are limited by either our time here – 32 days, or the number of people show might be interested. Minimum is typically 6 paid “tourists.” We arrange to first go to Queretaro, about 50 miles away. Maybe can fit in some others - hopefully to see Mexico City Anthropology Museum and a few Rivera murals.

Along the way, meet more new friends – Maria and Joel from Saginaw Michigan and sisters; Judith and Diane. My “list” of news friends keeps growing :-)


View all photos:

Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day6Of32SMA#

Days 1 to 22 @  http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#

Days 23 to 33 @   http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102# 

Adios – don Mariano