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Started the day with a church visit up the hill to Templo Santa Cruz. Was good to see the inside. Took me awhile to determine what the schedule was. After checking on the variety of bell ringing, determined it was at 9 am most days.
Took some photos from there of the bell tower we hear through the day. Then went next door to the Cultural Center. Since it is Holy Week, no school in session. Although there is a separation of church and state, it is hard to tell just where the separation starts or ends. As recent as the late 1920’s, church attendance was forbidden. Services were held in secret at homes or small hotels. How things have changed.
Again, I will say how impressed I am by the reverence to the faith the people have.
Later in the day, was “downtown” to see the stations of the cross. Fifteen stops along the way of Jesus’ passion walk of the crucifixion. Seeing so many children taking active parts was nice that the traditions will carry on.
After the procession passed, the sweepers and cleaners were there to pick up what had fallen; flowers, chamomile and other items used.
A long walk today – over 11 miles. Well worth the effort thinking back a week ago to the pilgrims walking from the remote church through the night.
View all photos:
Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day13Of32SMA#
Days 1 to 22 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#
Days 23 to 33 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102#
Adios – don Mariano
During breakfast in the garden, met a young couple who were visiting to check on some furniture to be made in SMA. He lived in many places around the world before finding his bride in Monterrey Mexico. His work takes him to Mexico City, so took his wife while she had some free time from her job. They showed us a photo book by Willy Sousa. The photo and video project is part of a special traveling exhibit for the centennial and bicentennial celebrations. Since the exhibit is now in the Mexico City zocolo - city center, we might be able to see the exhibit and get the book.
Next was to go to see if we could get confirmed for this Saturday tour to old mining town – Pozos. Unfortunately, we were the only two people who had expressed interest. Too bad. Hope we can get to Mexico City a week from now :-
Stopped for a bite to eat at Café Monet, another favorite of ours. Got to meet the owner, Bill Mendenhall. Fun to share stories with him.
From there, on to determine which 7 churches to visit today. Tradition is to visit seven churches for good fortune after participating in the washing of the apostles feet in the main parish church – The Parrochia.
On way around, visit with Guadalupe and Juan, who have snack shop down the street from us. Very nice people.
From 5-7 pm service @ Parrochia, make our round of the churches. There must be a dozen within the square mile of the colonial area. All of them have services, unlike at home with so many closings.
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Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day14Of32SMA#
Days 1 to 22 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#
Days 23 to 33 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102#
Adios – don Mariano
We participated in the Via Crucis – Way of the Cross in Colonia San Luis Rey about 3 miles north of us. The Passion re-enactment of the Stations of the Cross starts at the town church and proceeds 2 kilometers to Montes de Loreto. Jesus pulls a 130 pound cross over rocky or dirt road. He is followed by the 2 thieves who are bound to cross bars of the crosses they will be placed on. The procession lasted over 2 hours and was a very visual display of what happened. As the whipping was going on, you could hear both adults and children cry as though they perceived as as actually happening at this time.
Once we got to the hill where the crosses were raised, you could see a person representing Judas hanging from a tree for almost 45 minutes before being let down – too real for my senses.
I’ll let the photos tell the rest.
Afterwards, Carol and I walked down the dusty road to return to town. There must have been well over a thousand people who walked the entire route. We were blessed to have the opportunity to be part of this.
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Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day15Of32SMA#
Days 1 to 22 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#
Days 23 to 33 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102#
Adios – don Mariano
An easy day of walking around. First to Parque Juarez to see painters in actions and what was for sale. Got to meet Jonathon who has been here for a few months. Depending on sales of what he has, may stay longer. If not, will pack bags and on to next adventure. He told of trips to various countries to do both scenic and private portraiture work. Although he likes both France and Italy, says he would like to settle in Colombia if not so much time wondering if violence may be too near.
From there, on to the Jardin, or garden in the center of town – sometimes called the zocolo. Was fun watching kids holler and run around. Parents sitting in the shade eating helado – ice cream. Even saw friends we had met earlier in the week.
The nice “easy” walk was 7.21 miles. Decided to spend some chill time back at Casa Liza.
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Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day16Of32SMA#
Days 1 to 22 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#
Days 23 to 33 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102#
Adios – don Mariano
Before attending church service, we spent about an hour in the Jardin watching the Firing (exploding) of the Judases. Simply put, paper mache puppets are filled with timed fireworks. Each of the 24 were exploded separately.
The puppets represent the “bad” people in our life. Typically, each carried a sign of the person that was going to meets it’s exploding end.
Later, went for a walk and smelled burgers. Not quite a cheeseburger in paradise – only better – very yummy. Went home to see a hot air balloon floating by.
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Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day17Of32SMA#
Days 1 to 22 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#
Days 23 to 33 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102#
Adios – don Mariano
After breakfast and checking out the sight of our garden, went to see what is outside the walls of the compound we are in. Unlike most B&B – bed & breakfasts – a building with rooms. This is basically a 17th century family compound with different buildings inside. The owner, Liza Kisber, added a few other building, so you feel almost like you are in our own casita – home. Just wonderful.
As we moved along saw work on a place that was being renovated – think patch walls maybe a foot or 2 thick! Most cases, the outside is no reflection on what beauty is “beyond the gates.” One photographer, Robert de Gast, makes a living selling books of his photos. The books have titles like; The Doors of SMA. This is followed by; Beyond the Doors of SMA. Next was; Churches and Chapels of SMA. When you have a winning formula, you stick with it.
As we walked, saw some very nice neighborhoods. Only blocks away, around a corner, could see what the poor have to live with next to a trash filled stream. We noticed that tourist traffic is much less than last visit in 2008. Most here attribute to the slow world economy. Some who went to El Norte have returned because of lack of work and remittance that allows the family to live.
There are no easy answers to provide work to those want to work, even if leaving family for months to improve supporting their loved ones.
We think of headlines showing drug trade – yes it is here just like many other places. If no work for your young people, what do you do? Around the corner from the formal Farmacia are signs of the illicit drug trade. When someone says they are going to CVS, it might mean something all together different here – CVS, the local narco gang.
As I look at the brick work done here, can understand the preference for some in the US to use Mexican trained masons. Absolutely artful and reasonably priced.
We again meet Jonathon, who joins us for some respite in the Café Monet. Bill, the owner, introduces us to some other guests, who like us are here for either short or much longer stays.
From there, it is back to our Corner Room @ Casa Liza. Can you see why we like it here?
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Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day18Of32SMA#
Days 1 to 22 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#
Days 23 to 33 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102#
Adios – don Mariano
Went to Santa Cruz church today, hoping to catch the bell ringer in action. I was in luck. Found he has 2 separate ropes – one for each bell tower. Our place is just below all the jumble of wires.
Carol wasn't feeling well at breakfast, so I took the day to catch up on 2 weeks worth of blogs – matching photos with words. Needless to say, the number of photos is way below what I normally shoot – around 500. Am well over 8,000 snapshots so far. I call them my electronic bread crumbs since I can integrate the photos with GPS data and add to a map to know exactly where I was when I took the photo.
Like any new place, takes a while to accustom yourself to the surroundings and with so many hills, the reference points aren’t always easy.
Carol felt better around 6 pm, so went to el Pegaso restaurant. Soup and salad for her. Pollo mole for me. Chicken with the special chocolate based sauce. Every day I sing my favorite female Mexico singer’ – Lila Downs - song – La cumbia del mole. She sings about being in Oaxaca and mixing up a batch of mole with spices, chocolate and chilies. Tasty :-)
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Today's photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day19Of32SMA#
Days 1 to 22 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta2010#
Days 23 to 33 @ http://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/SMASemanaSanta20102#
Adios – don Mariano
